This is the thirteenth part (check out part twelve here) in our extremely popular video series in which Todd Muller, Head Motorcycle Tech here at Lowbrow Customs, disassembles a unit 650 c.c. Triumph motorcycle engine and rebuilds it.
In this installment Todd gives you a step by step guide on how to install your pushrods, rocker boxes, torque your head down correctly, adjust your valves, install your clutch cable, adjust your clutch, true your pressure plate, and more. This is the finale, after this, wire it up and get that baby on the road!
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You can read a full transcription of this video below:
Here we are again, guys. Episode 13, Triumph 650 Rebuild Series, Lowbrow Customs. Here's a motor, she's all buttoned up.
Today what we're going to do is we're going to use an alternate motor because this is obviously not in the frame. I have another motor right over here in a bike that's basically the same motor. It'll be all the same procedures. We're going to install the pushrods, rocker boxes, torque the cylinder head bolts, adjust the valves and we'll also show you how to adjust the primary chain through the pressure plate, and adjust the pushrod. That'll be pretty much everything you need to know to get her running. Let's move on over to the other motor, here.
Right here's our alternate motor that we can go ahead and get the rest of the jobs done on because the other one's not going in the chassis anytime soon, because it's not ready yet. Basically this is a later year model. We got the breather out here. All the things we're doing here will be exactly the same. As you you see the rocker boxes are off, motor's installed in the frame. I've got the outer head bolts and the inner head bolt installed. We'll go ahead and start with the front rocker box.
The first thing we're going do is we're going install the pushrods. What I like to do on the pushrods is I like to put a nice, big glob of grease in the ends, so when I stick it down in the hole, I can feel if it's on the tappet or not. I got some grease right here. We'll just put some grease in those sockets where they engage. Then you're just going to insert them into the pushrod tube. This pushrod tube actually has holes. With that grease on there, you can feel when it's on the tappet. You can pull up and down on the tappet and it'll have a little bit of -- You can just tell.
Now the next thing we want to do is we want to rotate the engine so that both of the pushrods are at their lowest point. Spark plugs out, transmission in neutral. We'll just use the kickstarter. See that pushrod coming up? Now it's coming down. We'll roll it through one time so you can see how they go up and down. Now that one's coming up. Now it's coming down. That should be where the pushrods are both at their lowest point. Once again, double checking that we're on the lifters because you can't really see down in there.
Now, we're going to use a new gasket on here. I prefer these gaskets that have metal in the middle of them rather than just the thin paper gasket. There's some guide holes on the gasket for the pushrods to help guide those too. We're going to feed those through there. Just get that baby on there like that. The other thing I'd like to put a little dab of grease on the top, now. I also like to just put a little dab of grease on the tips of the valves where the rocker arms contact them, so they're not dry on start up.
Now we got our pre-assembled rocker box. Obviously, the rocker feed needs to be facing this side of the engine for the line that gets connected to the oil tank. You're just going to stick this in the middle where you've got more room. Then you're going to lift it up over the pushrods and set it down on there. Boom. Now, we're going go ahead and put the head bolts in first. The reason being is sometimes you got to finagle it a little. Here's our new head bolts. On the one side, see how it wants to hit the frame. We'll let the washer go down and by just lifting the rocker box up ever so slightly, the head bolt will drop down in there. This side's really not a problem.
Those should thread very smoothly because we checked all our threads once again. I don't know how many times I can stress that. That you want to make sure all your threads are good because if your threads on the top of your cylinder were bad right about now, jeez, now we got to take the cylinder head off and then figure out why. Then we have two long bolts that go into the cylinder head. Once again, look at that, nice and smooth. Going right in. Just how we like it. Look at that. Bring those down by hand, and then we also have the three studs on the bottom. Those will get a nut and a washer.
The washers that come off of these engines in this location are very, very thin. I don't know where to get any without special ordering them. What I use are these metric washers. They are, let's see here, six millimeter metric washers work well there. They're a little thicker than the sock ones, but as long as you've got some thread showing, once you have the nut on, they'll be fine. We've got all our fasteners that belong to the rocker box in there. We'll just go ahead and use this wrench. Incidentally, these are whitworth, the head bolts. We're just going to go ahead and snug those down with the wrench. Snug them down.
Then we'll go ahead and snug down the long screws. One on each side. Then we're going to snug down the three in the bottom. Now the one thing I didn't mention that I will now is you want to be sure that the top of the pushrods, the little socket is engaged with the rockers. What we can do before we put the rear one on and torque everything up, is we can just rotate the engine and it won't hurt anything. It will just make sure they go up and down, that they're engaged because if they're not, then you've got a problem.
We're just going to -- There's that one going down. See it? We know darn well that one's engaged. Now it came back up and that one's going down. There we go. We know darn well that the pushrods are in fact -- What those are riding on, obviously, is that ball inside there, like so. That it is possible to get them in there, kind of cattywampus and cockeyed. Not good. No bueno. Now that we've got the front one on, and let's snug her down just a tad more because we are going to turn the motor over again to put the rear pushrods down. Basically, what's happening is you're opening the valve, but when we go to torque it, if the valve's open, once you torque them, it'll be fine. Little grease in our sockets.
I can feel that one's engaged and that one is too. Now see where the pushrods are. Oh boy, that one's down and that one's up. We can't put our rocker box on like that, we'd be forcing that valve open as we tighten it. Since we've already snugged this up, it's okay to rotate the engine now to bring those two down. That one's coming down. That one is going up, coming down. There we go. That's the lowest those are going to go. Again, new gasket. Sometimes you've got to force the end of the pushrod over the hole in the gasket like I just did but once it gets over it, the diameter is smaller so it's okay.
Once again, a little bit of grease on there won't hurt anything and a little dab of grease on the valve tip stems top of the -- A little bit more there. We got a little bit there we go, look at that. Something's in the grease. Now we're ready to put our rear rocker box on and look at that. That rocker's way down. You want to push it up so that when it goes on- see if these are -- You want this to go over that tip. If this was down, it might run into it. Just pay attention when you're doing that portion of this job. You can tell if it's not right, it won't go on.
Sneak her on in there like so. Tilt it back again like so and there we go. Once again, head bolts first, and I've got some extra nuts on these for the top motor mounts. It's always a good idea to have top motor mounts on these engines. Factory put them on there for a reason. I see some choppers running around town where they cut this piece and this piece off because they think it looks better but then you have no top motor mount. Now sometimes on a custom bike, at least have one set front or rear. Don't put them on there with no motor mounts.
See how that doesn't want to go in there? We'll put the washer on first now. See how that baby is running smack dab into the frame? That's why we don't want to put anything else in there tighten anything up. You're going to just -- Oh boy, that's a no bueno. She's a real close to the frame. There it goes. Hey, yes, so we scratched the paint. Hey, you know what, this is not powder coated, this is a little budget project here. You can't see it'll be under the tank, it'll be all right.
Once again, these should thread nice and smooth, no forcing of head bolts. It's basically pretty hard to look through that hole to see if that darn thing's on, the pushrod. Once again, after we get all the bolts in, we'll snug them down, we'll rotate the engine to make sure everything's engaged correctly because if for some odd reason you dropped your pushrod down into the tube and didn't have it engaged with the lifter and it's laying off to the side, as soon as you turn that motor over you're probably going to bend the pushrod. We'll go ahead and snug down the head bolts and snug down these two, and our three nuts on the bottom again.
Now these two with the dual-carb head difficult to get to the outside ones, but we'll get her on there. One other thing real quick here, these are new nuts. If you look at these nuts, you'll see that one side is very flat and the other side is not. If we put them together, you can see the difference. This is the side that's going to go up against the washer. Flip that over, see how it looks different. Same thing goes for the washer, washer's got kind of a rounded side and a flat side. Common sense there dictates -- Just pay attention when you're putting them back on that that flatter side of the nut and the flatter side of the washer are both facing up towards the cylinder head.
Like I said, those are a bear to get on there but we got it. We've got to get it past that intake manifold and get her started. There we go. Same thing goes for tightening these. I'm just snugging these up so I can verify pushrod tubes are good. Then the next thing we're going to do, we're going to torque the cylinder head bolts. Pretty exciting stuff. There's that one going down. There's the other one going down. I would be safe to say that everything's all engaged. Good job.
Let's get our torque wrench out and talk about torquing things again. Here is the sequence of which we'll be torquing the head bolts. You need to follow this little thing here. Number one's in the middle, and then you move over to two. Even though I do this all the time, I still refer to this little diagram here because I can't remember everything. It's going to be one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, that's the order you need to torque the head bolts in. It does say the torque spec in here.
It says torque cylinder head bolts evenly in the order shown, 18 foot pounds for the 3/8ths bolts and 15 foot pounds for the 5/16th bolt. Well, these are 3/8ths, this is the 5/16th, smaller one in the center. Once again, starting with the small one, number one. I didn't have that snugged down all the way. There she is. Okay, so I got the center one torqued. Now we're going to move on. Looking at our chart, this is number two, right here. We're going to our final torque this time. Once again, this works way better with a deep well socket. There it is. Referring back to the diagram. Number three is on the other side. Rear. Number four is in the front on this side. Number five is on the front on the other side.
Now, we're going to do the four outer ones and we'll be done. Except we should have just stayed over there because six is on this one over here. Six, seven. Six, seven. Referring back to our diagram again, number eight is in the rear. The last and final one, number nine is in the front. There you have it. Okay, just to review, the torque sequence on the cylinder head is the little one in the middle is number one, then it's two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine.
Now that we have all the cylinder head bolts, torqued, we can go ahead and tighten the other fasteners on there. Guess what? I don't really care what the torque spec is. I'm going to tighten them by hand. Because I'll be darned if I want to pull the threads out of the cylinder head going by some silly torques spec. I'm going to do it by feel. For inner ones and the ones on the bottom. That one's pretty tight already. No need to overdo these. I just want to do them nice and even.
You think we had a hard time getting the torque wrench on those other ones, boy. There's those. Once we finish tightening these last three, then we can start adjusting our valves. We're all set to go ahead and do the valve adjustment. What you need to do when you're adjusting the valves on these is you're going to spark plugs out, you're going to use the kickstarter in neutral, then you're going to rotate the engine. You're going to be watching the rockers going up and down.
When one is all the way down, the other one will be all the way up. This valve will be open, you're going to adjust the opposite side, the one that's all the way up. You'll rotate the motor again till the one you just adjusted is all the way down. Then the other one will be all the way up. Basically, what that's doing is it's at its loosest spot. Technically, not the loosest spot, it's on the low part of the cam lobe. That's where you adjust the clearance.
Let me grab some filler gauges here. I just happen to have my filler gauges off the thing because I use these all the time for the same job. We're going to do the intakes at 2000s and the exhaust at 4000s. Now, according to the book and another service bulletin you can also set them at four and six. I've been doing it this way for a long time, never had any problems. The biggest thing is you want- generally, after I adjust the all four, I'll rotate the motor over again and double-check them before I put the caps on to make sure they're all good because 2000s is not very much.
The other thing worth mentioning, if you're doing this on a running motor or just doing a valve adjustment, you want to always do it when the engine's cold. You don't want to adjust your valves when the motor is hot. We'll do the front ones first because they'll be easier for you guys to see for the video. Once again in neutral and that one just went down and came up. Now it's coming up, it's up, its up. Now that one will start going down. It's going down, going down, going down. Now it's starting to come back up.
We're going to go around one more time just because we can. Now this one's going down. When it's at its lowest point, we can adjust this side going down just nice and slow till it stops moving. There it is. That's as far as this will go down. What we need to do is we need to grab our wrenches. What you've got is this nut locks the adjustment. Once you've got it set right, you use this to tighten it down. This square portion does the adjustment. Basically that's going up and down in there.
You want to make sure that the larger nut, I can feel that it's got a little bit of play in there right now. We want to loosen this back this nut off just a little bit more so that we have room to adjust it. See now I can feel that there's some play in it. Once again, the exhaust we're going to do it at 4000. The way I like to do it, this needs to be in between the end of this and the tip of the valve. I like to leave the filler gauge in there. What I'll do is I'll tighten the center one down and checking to see that the gauge is still moving. Now it's too tight. I can't move that filler gauge. I'm going to back it off just a little bit. There we go.
There's my 4000s. Now you can also hear that noise it's making, you can grab it with your fingers and move it up and down. There's my 4000s. Then what I'll do is I'll lock it down there. Now, when you're locking it down, we'll see what happens. We're going to just turn this large nut to lock it but if the center portion turns while you're doing this, you just lost your adjustment. It's important that you make sure that the nut turns nice and free on here. Now I'm down to the bottom with the nut. What I'm going to do is I'm going to use this one to lock it and I'm going to use this one to hold it so it doesn't move while I'm locking it because then, of course, we'd lose our adjustment.
I've got that on there. I'm just going to tighten that down. Sometimes you got to futz around with this. It's a small space to work. I can't get my wrench. A good turn on it. We'll go again with the closed end. Not the easiest thing to demonstrate. [music]
There we go. Should I keep moving my wrench to get another swing on it? Now, she's locked down. It almost feels like it may have turned while I was locking it, so we're going to stick feeler gauge in there and check it. If it's not right at, it's not the end of the world. You'll just loosen it up and try again. That's a type four, but it's still there. It's type four, but that's okay. Now, we're done adjusting this one. We locked it down.
Now, what we're going to do is we're going to turn the motor over. That's coming up now. When this one goes down. This is going down, down, that's it right there. This one's down. That one's up. Just by somehow the way I put those in there, I've got some play because you don't want to have them too tight when assembling the engine. Now, we'll go ahead and we'll, again, stick our feeler gauge in between the end of this.
If it's too loose -- see that gauge moving? That's me pushing on the rocker arm and taking up the slack and see how it's moving the gauge, so I can tell that one's to loose. It's more than four thousands. Once again, I'm going to back off my nut, that one, and then I'm going to tighten down the center. I'm going to check while I'm tightening, still moving. That's too tight. See the gauge is not moving now. This is a very precise adjustment.
It does take -- it's a bit of a feel thing. There she is. See it? Now, my gauge is just moving in and out in between the tip of the valve and the bottom of this. Now, we can go ahead and lock this one down. Once again, I'm just going to carefully turn that nut back down watching the center to see that it doesn't turn while I'm tightening this because if it does, that's going to lose the adjustment.
You don't have to crank these down hard. There it is, see? Nice sliding fit. That's my four thousands. Once again, you can grab the end of this. There is your four thousands. I can feel it. I've done this enough times and I know what it feels like. Those two are done. I don't see much reason to show you again what we just showed you, so I am going to just go ahead and adjust these. This sides all the way down. We're going to adjust this one.
That one is real open way far, so we're going to run the knot out. Those other two just happened to end up pretty close to where they needed to be by accident. That wasn't planned. Before I put my caps on, I'm just going to roll it back through one more time and just give it a feel. I'm not going to stick my feeler gauge in because like I like I said, that one is coming up. That one's going down, down, down. There's my four thousands.
That one is coming up. That one is going down, down. There's my four thousands. This one's going down. There's my two thousands. That one is going down. I'm pretty confident I have some clearance on all four valves once again. If you start it up and it's noisy, maybe one is loose. They'll get checked again before this is all said and done. We can go ahead and put our caps on. We'll show you the nifty tool that we made for doing this job.
I've got some new gaskets for the rocker covers. I've got these loose. I'll tighten them up after we put the caps on and tighten them down. Once again, these caps don't need to be cranked hard. These little keepers that we have on there will keep them tight. This valve adjustment stuff is way easier to do with the gas tank off. You could see if the carburetors were on here, it makes it difficult to do the intake ones, but it is possible to do that with the bike completely together.
If you have a running bike, it's always a good idea to make sure your valve adjustments are correct. There, we've got all for caps, all four keepers, valve cap tool. Look at her, it's a beautiful thing. That will fit into those grooves and not booger these up because as you can see, the way that shape is on there you can tell somebody has used a screwdriver. These are original caps on this motor. These haven't been replaced.
This tool will keep us from buggering this stuff up here. Just put it in the slot and give it a turn. That should be good. Nice little tool, inexpensive tool. Just tight enough to seal is what we're looking for there. I don't think you can get it that tight with a screwdriver without buggering those up. Not like I'm cranking it down or anything. Just tightening it to compress that gasket. We'll grab us a Phillips's head or tighten those four keepers.
See, that thing wants to turn it tighten it, so if you just hold it. It's good. That one's good. Good, that's that. Now, we've got all our valves adjusted. Now, let's just roll the motor over a couple times to make sure everything feels good. Beautiful, since the clutch cable is already installed on that one, we'll just go over this very quickly. This is your late style clutch. This is your clutch release.
When the cable pulls up on this, there's a ball and ramp here. This center portion where you see that wear is what pushes on that long rod that goes through the main shaft. On the late cover, you can get your clutch cable on without taking this cover off. You got this piece the threads in here, and then on the end of this cable, this will thread into here. This part's not in the best of shape, but at any rate, you're getting the idea.
This treads into there. Then you'll shove this through this into here. Then you're just going to hook this like so, and that's what it looks like. Then see when you pull the cable, it's moving that, which is pulling this out. A pretty simple job to put your clutch cable on, not a big deal. Obviously, it's easy now, I'm doing it because I'm doing it from this side. You'll be on this side feeding it through and just sometimes if you get a bent coat hanger and pull it to the slot and move it forward and then when it drops in to there, you're good. Didn't want you to think we weren't going to show you how to put your clutch cable on.
Now, here's an early cover where you'll unthread the piece and the part that the cable hooks on will be sticking up out of it like so, and the cable just slips in there. It's actually easier than that one and it has this wire, so it does the same job, just a little different fashion. One other thing worth noting is on a late bike, this is where you fill the transmission. On an earlier engine, doesn't have that round hole to fill the tranny.
It will have the plug on the back of the crankcase. Early motor, you're going to fill your trainee here, so here is your little doohickey sticking up out of there for the cable. This is a mockup motor I have in this frame, but that's where you're going to fill. The reason I'm showing you these two differences is you put an early cover on your late motor, there won't be any place to fill up the transmission.
You can go the other way round so if you're mixing and matching parts, the covers interchange, that's not a problem, but you still have to have a way to fill your tranny. That's what the change they did, they took that plug. If you look at this motor, there's no cap on the back end of the top of the motor to fill the tranny. That's actually why that cover is in that parts bin over there.
I bought a motor at a swap meet and they had the early cover on a late motor, so I had switch it out. Oh, it was this motor as a matter of fact. Just be aware of that, if you're looking for a cover. You need a new kicker cover, yours is buggered up or broke or something's wrong with it, that's the difference. Also, the clutch cables are different, early and late, and that's how you can tell. Just by looking at your kicker cover, you know which year cable to order for your clutch.
What we're doing now is we're going to adjust these three springs and the pressure plate. What we need to do is we need to adjust the cable up, a preliminary adjustment. We're going to run this in. We've got the cable installed in the cover and we've got it threaded down pretty far where you -- I showed you the adjuster that threads into there. What we're going to do is we're going to run this adjuster in till it contacts the pushrod.
You can see the plate just starting to lift. Probably you can't see it, but you can see the plates just -- it's probably hard to see on the camera, but then we're going to back it off about a half a turn and we're just going to tighten that up, preliminary. Then we go to our hand lever, there's our pressure plate coming in and out. When you hit the lever, it releases the pressure plate, which takes the pressure off of the plates and that's what makes your clutch work.
In order to check to see if this is running true, what you need to do is -- I'm going to climb up here on the lift and hopefully, you're going to be able to see what I'm doing here. You're going to release the clutch and then you're going to use the kickstarter. You're going to rotate that pressure plate and you're going to sight down the edge of it and you want it to be running true.
You can do it by your hand or foot, but basically, you're sighting down this plane to see when you're spinning around, it's going true. It's not wobbling like this. If it is wobbling, then you're going to readjust the screws. Now, I can see that it's just out just a little bit. Once again, utilizing the awesome Lowbrow tool, we're going to turn this one in and see it's out. This will be easier if that was on top instead of in the bottom in front of the brake.
We're going to turn that one in and make it even with the other ones as far as how much of that center is sticking out to start and see where we're at. It was actually pretty close to being true. It didn't look that wobbly, but like I said, you want this to run true as it can. Now, we're going to release our clutch again and rotate our kicker. I can see that it's proud right here, so I'm going to that one a little bit more.
Basically, you just got to futz around with it until you get it to run true because you don't want it wobbling. Let's see if I can do it from this side. Probably won't be able to see it. I'll just climb on up here again. This is the easiest way to do this and I can see that it's proud. See it moving in right there? Then it's coming back out. See how it just went in there? Now, I'm going to loosen this one ever so slightly.
Basically, it's just a matter of loosening and tightening until you get it just right. I know it's a rigmarole, up and down, back and forth, round and round. That's looking pretty true right there. Then when you release it, it should turn the motor over nicely, and that should be a good adjustment right there to start. Always make sure you lube the heck out of your new cable, and then you also want to have some free play. There's my free play.
To check your cable free play, you want to grab the cable in one hand, pull the clutch in, and when you release it, just pull on the cable a little. See that right there? That's our free play. That's could be maybe one more. You want to have that free play at the lever and you want to have that little bit of free play down here. Now, that we've got it all dusted, we can go over this center adjustment again for the hell of it because we didn't lock this down anyway since we've messed with everything.
We're going to turn it out until it's not contacting that center rod. Right now, I can feel it's just starting to contact it. It's not touching it at all and this is the rod that we put in the middle of the main shaft. There, it's not touching It's just started to touch it, so you're going to give it a little pressure and then you're going to back it off about a half a turn. Then you're going to lock down that nut and that should be good to run the bike.
I have noticed that a couple of times after getting an engine ring seated that I'll be giving it a little more speed, a little more RPM, and notice the clutch may slip a little, well, then it's just a matter of taking cover back off and readjusting the spring tension. Right now, I'm pretty confident that these are some good settings, but you make sure you have your free play at your lever and you have your free play here.
Basically, one of the reasons you see the push rod worn out like the ones I showed you is, if this is pushing against that pushrod 100% of the time like this, it's going to wear the end of that. It's going to heat it up and it's going mushroom it, so you need that little bit of free play there before it contacts. This piece has a hardened end that touches that rod, and then you saw in the kicker cover itself, the clutch release has that other hardened place where it runs. You just don't want those to be pushing against each other really hard, you need a little bit of free play. One other thing worth mentioning, if you're adjusting your clutch, and you start hearing a clicking noise coming out of that kicker cover, you've got it too tight. Everything's too tight.
You need to back and de-adjust your cable. De-adjust it here, de-adjust it here, and go again. If it's clicking, what that's doing is it's -- the piece we showed you on the work bench, it's actually going past its useful range of motion, and that's those three little ball bearings in there. It's a ball and ramp assembly, and it's going past its useful range of motion. That clicking noise is those little balls in there, so if you hear a clicking noise coming out of there, too tight. Do it over again.
The only thing I have left to do on this particular engine is install the primary gasket, put the primary cover on, and I've got to finish up. I do have to do my ignition timing, but I've got all my other wiring done, and we should be ready to run this. I do like to put a thin bead of high-temp silicone or case sealer on this surface here, then I stick the gasket on, then I put the cover on.
The reason I do it that way is, number one, I want it to seal good. Number two, if I do need to take my cover back off to do an adjustment, the gasket will stay on the crankcase. A lot of times, you can re-use it. If you put glue on both sides of the -- if you put it on here, and then on the cover, when you pull the cover off, more than likely, the gasket'll get torn in half, and then you'll need a new gasket.
We do have some really nice gaskets on the website, extra thick ones. If your case isn't in perfect condition or your cover, we have some extra thick ones. I like using those all the time. We also have some standard ones, they work equally as well. We have one more thing to do, and that's to adjust our tension. Well, we've got this plug right here, which we will remove. In order to adjust the tension on our primary chain, we need to remove this plug like so.
Then utilizing this tool, you're going to stick it up in there, and you're going to get it in the groove. There it is, and you're going to turn it. Let's see. Is this wrench going to work or do we need to -- That one will work. Now, see what it's doing? It's turning this piece, and what that's doing is it's moving that shoe. It's bowing this up, and that will give us our tension here. You're just going to turn this, and every time you turn it -- See, this piece has got a cut on it, so it can't stop in the middle, that would not do anything.
You're going to turn that. Let's see where we're at. That's actually pretty good right there. You don't want it too tight because that puts undue stress on the basket and the sprocket.
Incidentally, if you don't have your cover off, you can take this plug out, reach down in there with your finger, and pull up and down on that chain to see where your tension is. Once again, not too tight. I guess we could grab the book and see what it says about the tension on that as far as the specification.
According to the Glenn's manual, it says, "Adjust the primary chain to allow 3/8th of an inch of play. Half inch for 500 engine." What you want is 3/8ths of an inch there. Basically, if you were to take a ruler, like a machinist's ruler, and put it up against the top edge of the chain and move it up, you should see 3/8ths of an inch. I can tell that's pretty good right there. I'm going to run with it there.
Put our spark plugs back in because I don't ever like to have spark plug holes hanging open. Lord knows what's going to fly in there when you're not looking. Once again, a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs, but not on the electrode. That way, as it gets some carbon buildup on it, it's easier to remove. You've got an aluminum head and a steel spark plug. Look at that, he's got a plug wrench handy.
Don't overdo it on your spark plugs. Just enough to compress the washer that's on the bottom of the plug. Badda bing. There we go. We also have one other part to put on here. We've got our rocker feed line. Probably should have put that on before I put that on, but that's okay, we can take that back off. New sealing washers on the rocker shafts. This is going to go behind that head bolt, I think. Maybe not. Like so. There we go.
Once again, flat side in, on these washers, too like the other ones we showed you. Then we've got some new dome nuts for the rocker feed. We're going to tighten those down. That takes care of that. Now, I mentioned earlier about the head stays at the top motor mounts. They will slide over this stud and go to this hole with a nut, here, here, and here. I don't have any, I forgot to bring some home from the shop.
If we have some in stock, I am going to put some top motor mounts on there, and they'll go on those long extra part of that stud sticking out of there. That pretty much covers the engine. Well, I guess that concludes our 650 Triumph Engine Rebuild series. I hope you guys enjoyed this as much as I did. If you need any parts or advice, you're welcome to call the shop anytime, I'm available for questions.
If you need advice on buying some parts, if you're working on your engine, you need some advice, that's what I do at Lowbrow. I help customers with motorcycle questions, five days a week, 375 days a year -- wait a minute, there's not even that many days in a year. I do apologize for the length of time it took us to complete this series. We do a lot of other stuff besides provide you with this awesome video content at our shop.
My awesome camera guy, Mikey, he does all of our product photos, all our social media, a lot of our events. It does take quite a bit of time to edit these awesome videos that you've been watching all these years. Once again, thanks for joining us, and we'll see you next time. One other thing I got to tell you. When we get this little honey here running in that chassis right there, we're going to do a little short video of it, firing up and ripping down the road.
The last and final one, number nine is in the front, and there you have it. Lunch break!
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